In recent tough economic times when stock markets took a battering, military themes came to dominate fashion trends. This autumn won’t represent a change, writes Audrey Raby.

While fashion trends tend to burn out after a few years, women’s ‘urban warrior’ look is definitely here to stay. However, variations abound in how the look is interpreted.

Functional military

Although this style was initially inspired by the 18^th and 19^th Centuries, runways now show silhouettes of both men and women coming straight from the 20^th. Forget about camouflage prints: army green is ‘the’ trend’s colour, followed by navy blue, while shearling is the fabric. Try it on the collar of a coat, boots or handbag.

Medieval

More subtle but no less appealing is Prada’s take on combat clothes. Largely inspired by Joan of Arc, the medieval style, also seen at Mais il est où le Soleil, brings back boiled wool, fur trim, sexy chainmail knits and above all, over-the-knee and thigh high boots – either in leather or elegant suede. As for the colours, berries and deep olive pop against neutrals, reminiscent of heraldic emblems.        

Amelia Earhart’s style

As we head to the cooler months, the classic pre-1950’s aviation sub-trend gains more popularity. The style was beautifully reintroduced by Hermès last year and has now been followed by Burberry, Chine Belgian Design and Comptoir des Cotonniers, to name only a few. The cuts are slim, sometimes even gender neutral. Sheep skin or (false) fur lining fit perfectly with dark-brown leather, which can be found on boots, driver gloves, caps and, of course, the classic bomber jacket.

Post-war elegance

References to Hitchcock’s female heroines can be seen everywhere and World War II influences introduce a touch of austerity and classicism, as chiefly emulated at Lanvin. Camel tones and masculine grey and black are predominant. At Louis Vuitton and Van Laack, women show a total 1960s look à la ‘Mad Men’, featuring full, below-the-knee circle skirts, lapel shawl collars, wide waist-cinching belts, lamb leather clutches and pearls. Bobby socks under shoes are no longer a faux pas andcan even add a dash of colour. Fabrics are particularly heavy too. As for make-up, lips are dark, as seen in Dior Haute Couture collection. Tom Ford’s Black Orchid or Rouge Noir from Chanel are great, but if you opt for this look, don’t forget to go easy on the rest, else you might end up looking a bit gothic instead of chic.

Where to shop

…For original pieces in Brussels:

Hunting and Collecting

rue des Chartreux, 17

1000 Brussels

Tel: +32 (0)2 512 74 77

www.huntingandcollecting.com

…In Antwerp:

RA 13

Kloosterstraat, 13

2000 Antwerp

Tel: +32 (0)3 292 37 80
http://shop.ra13.be/

To find your favourite brands in Brussels:

Privejoke

rue Marché au Charbon, 76

1000 Brussels

Tel: +32 (0)2 502 63 67

www.privejoke.com

…in Antwerp:

Dany May

Teniersplaats, 5-7-9
2000 Antwerp
Tel: +32 (0)3 233 11 16

www.danymay.be

Luxury outlets:

V.O (VERSION ORIGINALE)

Rue Jean Stas, 10

1060 Brussels

Tel: +32 (0)2 537 17 70