The art of living in Antwerp

By Lynn Lemaire who is an expert in school administration and curriculum development. Originally from New Jersey, USA, she has been living in Antwerp for the past 14 years, working at the Antwerp International School teaching English and producing the school's annual yearbook.

It was late at night, 14 years ago, when I received the phone call from my friend Ken who was in Antwerp, Belgium where he had taken a job at an international school. I was still back in Wildwood, New Jersey trying to figure out whether or not to stay at the school where Ken and I had worked together. It just would not be the same without him so I was considering a change of scene.

The phone call was a shock. “How would you like to teach 5th grade here?” Ken asked. To be honest, there were only a few minutes of doubt – when I considered the fact that even though I was fully certified to teach elementary school, I had been teaching 17- and 18-year-olds for many years and I worried about the huge difference. In spite of some trepidation, I answered Ken with a definite YES! This would be the change of scene for which I had been searching.

My decision called for some quick action on my part as it was already the middle of August and I only had two weeks to close things down in New Jersey, resign from my Wildwood teaching post, say many tearful goodbyes, and brace myself for the biggest change of my life – moving to Belgium.

Made in Belgium
Oh, I knew about this small country tucked away in Western Europe – I had a lovely brass mirror with ‘Made in Belgium’ stamped on the back of it and, having grown up on National Geographic magazines as a kid, I was aware that such a place existed. But I had no idea what I was in for. I was frightened, excited, nervous, and proud all at the same time. It was a strange amalgam of emotions for a 44-year-old woman.

Now that I am 58 and have had the privilege of living in Belgium for the past 14 years, I am no longer frightened or nervous but am still incredibly excited and proud to live in this strong and charming country. I feel especially fortunate to own a beautiful loft in the heart of Antwerp located near the university and the Art Academy. Before buying a home here, I rented, first in Ekeren (for a year) and then for two years on Zand where I had a wonderful view of the River Schelde from the bedroom window and a stone’s throw away from an Antwerp landmark – The Beveren! If you have never seen the hurdy-gurdy in the Beveren, you really must drop in!

When the bar under my Zand flat installed speakers on their ceiling, which was also the floor of my bedroom, I knew I had to find another apartment so I rented a place on Stoelstraat where, even though I had to climb 64 stairs several times a day, I was rewarded with a terrace view of both the cathedral and Sint Pauluskerk. In the three years I lived there and enjoyed that terrace, I felt I could spread my arms and with my left hand grab the spire of Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal and with my right hand touch Sint Pauluskerk. And many nights I slept on that terrace looking up at the stars wondering what I had done to be so blessed to have the opportunity to live in such a fantastic city.

Treasure hunting
But the time came for me to take that step to actually buy a place of my own. So the frustrating and time-consuming process of house hunting got under way. Real estate shopping in Antwerp is an adventure all its own. What often appears to be a bland and mundane space from the outside may actually turn out to be an absolute gem on the inside. You just have to take the time and make the effort to explore some of the treasures that are available.

Of course, I had a fixed amount of money above which I could not go, but with persistence and the help of a colleague who placed an ad in my mailbox at work, I found my dream house. Well, it’s a not a house – it’s a loft with lots of beamy bits and a terrace and a garage – everything I could ever have dreamt of. And the fact that it’s located in old Antwerp by the Stadswaag is just the icing on the cake (or should I say the foam on the beer – after all, we are in Belgium!). Stadswaag means “weigh-house” and the building used to be the place where shipping merchants’ goods were weighed. The actual weigh-house was destroyed in a Zeppelin bombing raid.

Now, lots of the university students hang out at one of the several cafés and the area seems to keep growing. A whole new apartment complex is planned for across from the Art Academy and other building and renovation projects are popping up all over the city. Antwerp is buzzing with signs of constant growth which is great to see as it tells us that Belgium’s economy must be doing okay! However, my neighbour, who was born and raised in Antwerp, tells me she hopes her city doesn’t get too popular because then it will no longer be one of Europe’s “best-kept secrets”!

Having come from a 24/7 culture, I must admit it took me some time to get used to shops closing at 6pm or earlier and not being open on Sundays. This certainly changed my daily routine as I could no longer grocery shop at midnight or browse ‘Borders’ or ‘Barnes and Noble’ for hours on Sunday afternoons! But before long I learned to get into the rhythm of going to the market on Saturday and Sunday mornings, meeting up with friends for oysters and white wine at one of the market stalls, enjoying a coffee or beer at De Muze or a jenever at De Vagant, and watching the constant stream of people who make up this fair city. In time, I learned to respect the rule of early closing times so that shop assistants can get home to their families, which is really how life should be.

Main attractions
My students often ask me why I like Belgium so much. I usually start with the dog thing. It’s great living in a country where my chocolate Labrador is welcome just about everywhere with no fuss or bother. In fact, café owners serve him his water at the same time as they serve me my coffee. It’s wonderful.

Next I mention the weather. Now I know that most people complain about Belgian weather; they find it unpredictable and gloomy. For me, it’s perfect. Any single day can bring on dark clouds, wind, rain, and then a burst of sunshine that beckons everyone to an outdoor café for a drink and a chat.

Then, I have to tell them how much I enjoy the fact that I have a fabulous home in a place where I can basically walk around the corner and see the Grote Markt, the Rockoxhuis, the Vleeshuis, Rubenshuis, and any number of historical sites I may never have had the opportunity to see had I not made that turning-point decision 14 years ago. I still marvel at the breathtaking Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedral which is a beacon that has always helped me find my way back when I wandered off to far ends of the city! Of course, I go on to tell my students that they just have to love a place where they could go out every night to a new restaurant or café and probably never get to try all of them!

When you seize an opportunity to move to a new place, you never know what awaits you. Fortunately, I have been greeted by Belgian people who have made me feel welcome and comfortable in their country, especially in Antwerp. I marvel at their ability to speak to me in perfect English and then turn to someone else and carry on in their native Flemish and then switch to French, German, and a few other languages.

It’s a chilly but sunny winter’s day so I take my last sip of coffee and finish off the silky chocolate that accompanies it, grab my dog’s leash and stroll off along the cobbled streets past the cathedral. I take time, as I always do, to look up. What a work of art. What a tribute to a proud city which I now call my home. A busker plays his guitar and sings some old Bruce Springsteen tune – “Born in the USA”. I might have been born there, but I certainly am happy to be living here in Belgium!